This popular little Persian restaurant wins awards for its kabobs. Deliciously marinated, flame-broiled meat-on-a-stick served with perfect rice and house-baked pita, its take on this Middle Eastern staple is stellar. But we love to sample the house favorites as well and delve into the subtle, complex blends of stewed meats, spices, veggies, beans, and fruits.

The eggplan dish kashk-o bademjan; the garbonzo bean, noodle, parsley, and garlic soup called ash-e-reshteh; and the fessenjun-an outstanding walnut and pmegranate sauce-are all subtle and redolent. Don't fuss over the paper plates and uninspired decor-just try to beat the dinner lines.

The night we visited the small Towsn eatery, the cook deftly shaped the dough over a mold and popped the breads into an oversized metal oven. The pitas were pulled out only munites, later, cooked perfectly.

Such pleasures make the Kabob Hut well worth a visit. Located on Allegheny Avenue just a few paces from York Road, the carryout has a few tables inside as well as some on the sidewalk. The decor, such as it is, features photogrps of New york and Middle Eastern sites. Fake flowers grace each table.

The Kabob Hut's menu, naturally enough, revolves around grilled vegetables and meats - mostly chicken and beef - as well as a handful of persian specialties.

We tried both chicken and beef kebabs. The chicken version ($5.75) featured nicely seasond chunks of white meat on a hot pita, accompanied by delicious grilled tomato chunks and a refreshing yogurt sauce.

We splurged on the fessen june sauce ($3.95) to go with the chicken. The rich brown concoction was made with ground walnuts and pomegranate juice, and added a sweet, exotic grace note to the meal.

The beef kebab ($6.75), which promised "tenderloin," was marinated, salty chunks of meat the seemed a bit too chewy to qualify as tenderloin. But coupled with tomatoes and yogurt sauce, and wrapped ina pita, the beef was adequate. An order of grilled vegetables($3.95) Included more of those smoky tomatoes, as well as onions, bell pepper and a couple of mushroom slices.

Finally, we loved the khoreshtgheymeh ($6.95), a piping-hot stew of split chickpeaks, beef pieces, onion, tomato and curious little potato sticks. The savory mix went well over basmati rice. The only dessert available is baklava, that super-sweet Middle Eastern pastry, which is made on the premises.

The Kabob Hut has no parking lot, meaning you'll have to feed a meter and perhaps, walk a bit. It's worth it.